How many coats of elastomeric

Also note that this DFT must be maintained on the substrate's peaks and valleys. This is especially important when coating rough surfaces like stucco. It's also another reason why the specification should always require backrolling if the coating was applied by spray; otherwise, you may achieve the required 15 mils DFT in the low areas valleys of the surface, but not on the high areas peaks.

Inexperience and Thinning. Furthermore, the end result of thinning with water is harder to gauge than thinning with solvent. You can add as much as a gallon of water to a five-gallon pail of product and not see much difference. One easy way to gauge if an elastomeric coating was applied too thinly is to compare the gallons of material used to the number of square feet covered.

Theoretical coverage with elastomerics is in the range of square feet per gallon to yield the final dry film thickness, versus the typical square feet per gallon attained with conventional paints. It is also noteworthy that elastomeric coatings are appreciably more expensive than conventional paints, so a less-than-honest painter will be tempted to apply less than the required film thickness. Other Issues. Elastomerics achieve very little penetration of the substrate; they essentially lay on top of the surface.

Consequently, the concrete finishing contractor must first repair any bigger-than-hairline cracks in the walls and fill any voids or bugholes before coating application. Cracks and bugholes must be repaired and concrete dust and debris removed before elastomeric coatings are applied. Care must also be taken to properly rid the surface of any residual concrete or sacking dust or debris; otherwise, the coating film or adhesion may be compromised.

All you need is to understand the important facts about elastomeric roof coating and, you might be surprised to hear, applying elastomeric roof coating can be done in three easy steps! If you are considering taking on a DIY elastomeric roof coating project, here are a few important things to keep in mind as you prepare as well as the simple steps required to apply it that are as easy as 1, 2, 3.

If you are going to be putting something on your roof, it is probably a good idea to know exactly what you are working with, right? Elastomeric coatings are liquids used in a variety of different exterior applications such as concrete, stucco, and masonry walls to add a layer of protection against wear and tear, as well as helping the surface preserve its attractive appearance. These liquids have a greater volume and thickness than standard paint coatings but are applied in the exact same way.

No need for special equipment or processes. This greater volume gives elastomeric coatings far superior water-resistant properties as well as greater durability and flexibility than paint. Elastomeric coatings come in the form of several different materials, each with different properties that give them varying strengths and weaknesses.

Elastomeric coatings include: butyl, acrylic, polyurethane, and silicone. You can learn more about each one of these four materials here. Once applied, elastomeric roof coatings can last anywhere from 10 to 20 years, depending on the thickness of the coating and how well you maintain your roof after application.

Regular inspections by roof coating experts as well as a combination of regular cleaning and care can keep your roof coating in good condition and maximize its protective qualities for as long as possible. His other option is a soft-jaw micrometer that measures the thickness of a small area peeled from the surface.

After measuring the thickness, the inspector measures adhesion with a crosscut tool in multiple random areas according to ASTM D Method A, which is suitable for coating thicknesses greater than 5 mils.

If adhesion is found to be lacking, the inspector will look for these telltale causes: an excessively smooth or shiny surface underneath the coating, or residual concrete or sacking dust clinging to the underside of the delaminated paint film. Both are evidence of poor surface preparation. With elastomeric adhesion issues, dust and debris are frequently the culprit: as stated earlier, any residue that remains on the surface prior to coating can substantially compromise coating adhesion.

The same coating manufacturer and product should be used same on same to keep the warranty intact. Dealing with Adhesion Issues However, when the adhesion is poor, the owner faces a more daunting and costly challenge. If the areas of bad adhesion are isolated, the failed sections can be scraped back to a sound surface and then power washed — psi to assure no residual debris remains.

Once the surface is dry, the painter must now achieve a non-visible touch-up, which is no easy task. Found ppg perma crete pitt flex elastomeric for for 5 gal. Guy at hardware store said it was a good price. I have a barn with an area where 2 pressure treated plywood panels are exposed to shady humidity and rain. An elastomeric coating will be fine once the plywood is properly primed. Make sure to use an oil base wood primer, if available, and apply 2 coats of the elastomeric paint for maximum protection.

I have a stucco home that was built in It is been painted multiple times most recently I think with several coats of latex paint. My painter recently came and power washed the home. He claims there are many micro-cracks now visible and wants to do one layer of elastomeric paint covered with 2 coats of high-quality Sherwin Williams latex paint.

Is there any concern about this? Sounds like your painter wants to establish a good foundation for both your current paint job as well as future paint jobs as well. Thanks for the information that you have provided. I am having my house painted. We bought a house and found that its windows leaked. So we are having all seams sealed with caulking and our painter is offering to prime with Kelly Moore flat paint, and a Benjamin Moore elastomeric paint.

He states that with both coats rolled on rather than sprayed he will be able to build enough thickness to not require two coats, is this correct? Yes, it is possible to apply very thick coats with just a roller. It is difficult to achieve with a roller verses a sprayer.

After he applies the final coat to a wall take a look and make sure you like the result, 1 heavy coat of paint can have a less desired look when compared to 2 coats. Hi, I would like to know if elastomeric paint would work on metal shipping containers. I have many gallons of elastomeric paint that I picked up for almost nothing, and 3 containers that I would like to paint to be the same color. The existing paint is in fair shape, just faded.

What prep so I need, primer? It should work fine. You will need to apply a primer first then spray on the elastomeric coating. Once prepped the elastomeric can be applied. Recommend spraying for the best look and even coverage. I figured it would be a good idea to waterproof the wall as it will be sprayed often when watering and have a warm humid environment in the space between the house and the plant fixture.

Should a good quality exterior paint be enough or would elastomeric paint be advisable? I believe I have T siding. A good exterior paint will work well. Use a paint with a good sheen, semi-gloss, behind the plant wall for some added protection. Shiny paints shed water better and faster than satin or flat. I have a ceiling in my living room with tiny settlement cracks and the tape has been replaced twice but it continues to loosen shortly after being spackled and repainted.

If I use flexible tape, spackled, then primer, then elastomeric paint on the whole ceiling, would that fix the cracking or should I just buy wood and cover the ceiling in wood paneling? It will take more than one coat, the thickness is important for the stretchy effect. Is your ceiling plaster or sheetrock wallboard? Old plaster can show cracks over time that are not related to settlement.

In this case replacing the plaster or laminating over with wallboard is needed. I had my house painted with Kelly More elastomeric paint over new stucco. Perhaps after 8 years or so, cracks of various widths showed up on the south and west side walls.

A year ago, water dripped down through a ceiling light fixture — I believe one crack started at the corner of a metal vent high on the side of a wall and the paper insulation was probably not done right, thus allowing water in. Would it be a good idea to use them on the south and west sides of the house and just regular elastomeric such as the Behr band on the rest of the house? You should use the better elastomeric coating on the entire house, all stucco, as it is way better than any Behr product, plus you will have a more consistent seal and protection from weather events.

We live in Florida where we are exposed to hurricane force winds on occasion. In we had three come through and our walls, which were painted with construction grade paint in when the house was built, leaked. We painted with elastomeric and have had no problems since. We would like to repaint, I want a bit darker color than the original. May I paint with elastomeric again without priming? The original color is a cream and I want to go with a sage.

Some manufactures formulate their elastomeric coatings in a way that makes them incompatible with other paints. I live in the high desert, very, very dry and windy. My house is 14 years old, with highly textured stucco that is cracking all over. The house has never been painted. I am trying to figure out what kind of paint to use. I have read to use the elastomeric paint so it will fill in the hairline cracks, but wanted to know if regular exterior paint would do the same?

I cannot afford a professional painter to do the job, so will be painting it myself. Elastomeric coatings are not like regular paints. A regular paint will not have the thickness or stretchiness.

Prime first with a good acrylic masonry primer, filling in some cracks and sealing the pores. Then apply 2 coats of a good elastmeric, like Sherwin Williams Sherlastic. This is a lot of work but doable for someone in good shape and willing to take up the challenge.

Wanting to paint our Florida stucco home, and am looking at elastomeric paint. Have some small cracks in the southern wall due to all the heat. If I paint this wall with elastomeric and cracks reappear how can I then repair or repaint this area? Planning on painting the entire house but have concern over this one wall. Do I need to use a primer on my stucco walls that are in great condition if I pressure wash them first?

If so then is there a relatively good and cheap primer? Lowes has Valspar elastomeric for about the same. Which of these would be the best paint at a reasonable price point? Prime all stucco with an acrylic masonry primer before applying any paint or coating, including elastomeric. Make sure to backroll if spraying and pound it in to seal up the pores. There is relatively inexpensive primers, all the major brands have their own version.

I would use Sherwin Williams Sherlastic, 2 coats. Our 3 year-old house in Central Florida has cracks that look like stairs on the two side walls and the rear wall. Some of the cracks are quite long. We had an insurance adjuster look at the exterior, and he said the cracks are nothing to be concerned with and they are typical.

We are selling the home, and these cracks are turning off potential buyers. The Sherwin Williams guy suggested elastomeric coating. Do we need that on the whole house, or just the cracks, with good paint on the rest of the house? You will need to paint the entire wall. No need to paint the entire house just the cracked walls. Choose a color that matches your existing house color. I live in a small town in Alberta, Canada and wish to change the color of our white stucco house. Just a few cracks that my stucco contractor said he would repair.

Do I need to prime the existing stucco prior to painting it with elastomeric paint? Would you recommend elastomeric paint considering the extreme winters we get in Alberta? Or some other kind of paint? Considering that our stucco still looks good maybe leaving it alone would be a better choice.

What brand would you recommend if you think elastomeric would be a good idea? Thanks a million. Whenever painting raw stucco always clean then apply a masonry primer acrylic. This will provide a proper foundation for the coating. I do recommend an elastomeric coating for stucco but regular house paint will also work. Sounds like a winner for my application. I heard elastomeric is used on some race track areas. Its not invisible but I suppose the right product can take a little if not better vehiclur traffic on cement, still might scuff but it will last.

So my question is if I want to repaint over it, I should have better luck with a flexible acid based bonding primer?? Acid and power washers will be a bigger hassle? Elastomeric coating as mentioned here are not intended for horizontal surfaces or for any traffic, foot or vehicular. You must be thinking of different specialized products.

Contact the manufactures for their recommendations for prep and application. I am in the process of buying a stucco home in San Diego, near the coast. The house was built in and has multiple hairline cracks around almost all windows, doors, mounted lights etc, as well as some cracks that are vertical and horizontal on various walls some that are the size of a credit card. Also there are larger chips along the flashing, and some doors. I would use the Sherlastic elastomeric coating. It has better stretch than the other products.

Make sure the stucco is primed first with a masonry primer then enough Sherlastic is applied for a thick pinhole free surface, 2 thick coats coats is better than one very this coat.

Hi, we want to pain our 15 year old stucco house in a mountain community in CA with extreme temp changes. Stucco has a lot of hairline cracks and has never been painted before.

I am using big stretch elastomeric caulk for the cracks and want to use elastomeric paint Don Edwards or Sherlastic for our stucco. Could I have the primer color matched and do primer and one coat of paint? We are doing it ourselves. Thank you very much! Most primers can be tinted, although not dark colors. This does help with coverage. All exterior coatings need to applied at specific cured thicknesses in order to reach their full performance. Elastomeric coatings are no different and should be applied at the manufactures specified thickness.

Sherlastic is This is very thick, 2 coats are better than 1 thick coat. Using a masonry primer can remedy this and give you better performance. Hello, I read through all the previous questions and comments and did not see anything related to my specific dilemma. I heard that I could do a test using Xylene to determine if the existing topcoat is water based or solvent based- which I plan to do. But I have my suspicions that the previous owners may have used a water based elastomeric paint once, or maybe more, before.

If I discover they used a solvent based topcoat- which I hope they did instead. I will go with the same PolyGlaze product as it is still available. Instead of Xylene use denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol to check for acrylic paint. Acrylic paints are dissolved by alcohol, will become gummy or wipe off when exposed to alcohol. Either way, you will need to remove all loose and peeling paint, try to do some sanding not always possible with acrylics , then prime the bare spots. A good oil based universal prime will work.

I have a stucco house in Houston Texas 18 years old. It had a elastomeric coating many years ago. If ok , 1 or 2 coats? You can repaint with an elastomeric over the regular house paint.

Prep as usual, wash and remove any loose paint. After just 2 years your paint should be in good shape. Our house is ocean front at the Equator and I want to replace my cadi thatch roof with new cedar wood, which will also be the interior ceiling. I am considering using elastomeric paint over the cedar lap cut wood planks.

Will the elastomeric coating be enough of a water barrier as the final roof. The other option is to put a breathable moisture barrier over the wood, then a layer of super board, a concrete type pressed board. Then coat with elastomeric. I think your other idea is better. An elastomeric roof coating could then be applied and give better longer lasting results. Ok, Thank you.

That is what I originally planned, but after reading the posts here, considered it just over wood. We built a textured stucco house in Houston, TX in It was painted with a Sherwin Williams exterior latex paint. With the high heat and sun, the paint has faded, especially the darker trim color. In spring , we plan on repainting and we were considering elastomeric paint.

Question, do we need to prime first, before using an Elastomeric paint? Also, we want High resistance to color fade so plan on going with Benjamin Moore Aura exterior.

Any thoughts on this brand or product? Power wash entire exterior house 2. Apply elastomeric paint 1 coat 3. Apply Benjamin Moore Aura 1 coat. Do I need to apply a primer before the elastomeric coat if my house already has latex paint on it, about 5 years old? Anything special we need to do or not do on the trimming? The process you are thinking about is fine as long as the elastomeric is thick enough to get the benefit.

Otherwise just apply 2 coats of Aura, which is a very good paint. You could apply a coat of elastomeric to the foam trim when painting the main body then paint as usual, Aura in your chosen color.

This will give a little more impact resistance and prefill the pores if there is any. Am looking to paint our Florida stucco home, and have been reading up on elastomeric paints. We had all of the cracks repaired. Some were hairline cracks that were opened up and patched and in other areas the stucco the whole wall actually was completely replaced as we had two leaking windows.

I am guessing the original paint was a standard builders paint. I know the builder used Sherwin Williams just not sure which specific one. The new color is is going to be darker. I was planning on power washing, priming and painting the entire house. I was going to spray both primer and paint and back roll. My questions are as follows:. Do you recommend elastomeric or a high quality latex? Do I need to prime before using either? If so, do I need to backroll primer? For each option elastomeric or latex which primer if needed and paint would you recommend?

Can you give me 2 or 3 options various price points for each. What sheen is recommended flat or satin for a darker color. Is this a good option? Or do you recommend something else like a polymer coating used on docks? Sealing it up like this will trap moisture and cause rot, eventually it will peel.

I would use a solid color acrylic stain. Wash the fence then apply the stain, back-rolling or back-brushing to really push it into the wood.

Not too hard to to every years. Our stucco home was painted 11 years ago with a primer and two coats of Benjamin Moore moorlastic paint. It has held up well except for the sunny waterfront side. It has a couple of small hairline cracks and the paint has faded into some streaks only on that side. We have a couple of estimates from painters. One wants to use just another premium Benjamin Moore paint not elastomeric and the other wants to use two coats of Loxon XP sherwin Williams paint.

Which would you recommend. We are going with a lighter shade this time almost white Doris. The Loxon option is the best but the most expensive. Elastomeric can take a beating and is tougher overall to regular paint. Fading on the sunny side will still be an issue, as with any paint. The regular paint option is a good maintenance choice. Easy to apply and cheaper overall. With a good foundation of elastomeric a regular quality paint can be applied without the extra expense.

This is a typical option for repainting over elastomeric in good shape. And the choice I would go for. Using Regal exterior would be a good choice. I have a 91 year old stucco house that has never been painted. The stucco is on good condition but is stained in several places with reddish and gray streaks. Is there a way to remove the discoloration without painting?

That would be difficult for me to afford. If I do paint, it sounds like you recommend a primer before applying the elastomeric paint? What a wonderful gift you are giving to those of us who are not expert. Thank you for your time and good information.

We are getting bids to paint our stucco house with elastomeric. The house is in Philadelphia area and the stucco has never been treated, painted or coated going on 23 years old. All painters have specified using 2 coats of Loxon XP on the stucco. Only one painter has quoted applying a masonry conditioner followed by 2 coats of Sherlastic.

Which option is the best choice? Is only 2 coats of Loxon XP better or is masonry conditioner plus 2 coats of Sherlastic better? I appreciate any advice. Any good house paint can be used but it will take a lot of it to fill in the pores. A good alternative is to an elastomeric. No priming is needed over an efis acrylic color coat.

I have concrete steps at my front door and want to paint them as I am selling the house. The steps have never been painted before. Most questions posted are regarding stucco houses. Will the steps require priming prior to painting? There are no obvious cracks on the walking surface. Any information you can provide would be appreciated. Other than the possible need for a primer, and obviously cleaning the concrete are there any other considerations I should be looking at regarding the prep process?

No, elastomeric coatings are for vertical walls only. Use a concrete stain, solid colored. Make sure to properly prepare the steps before staining. However — our lowest level is partially below grade is above grade on the back , and we have to use a DE-humidifier all year round.

The entire house could actually benefit from DE-humidification. I would love to know your thoughts about whether an elastomeric paint would increase our indoor humidity at all? But, it would allow any moisture to escape from your interior walls, if some gets stuck behind the stucco.

This could be a benefit in your situation. Thank you so much for your reply! It would be great if you could help me to understand this seeming contradiction. Sorry for the confusion. Elastomeric coatings allow moisture to escape but block its entry, 1 way trip out for moisture.

All coatings will trap some moisture if the levels are to high, example water vapor condensing into a liquid. Between the 2 choices, elastomeric coatings or regular acrylic house paint, the elastomeric coatings allow more water vapor to escape faster.

Any advise for Burnt Adobe? Most bricks are OK but a portion have lost their hard exterior shell and are in danger of decay. A small portion of them have already eroded enough that the surface is concave. It has been suggested to use elastomeric patching compound for repair, and then elastomeric paint to renew the protection on the bricks. Will this work? The patching compound will work, mostly, but the bricks need to be stabilized.